穿越時空的中式婚服之美 - 龍鳳裙褂的前世今生| The Beauty of Traditional Chinese Wedding Attire - Past and Present of the Dragon and Phoenix Gown

絲絲金銀繡線纏成龍鳳，舞動在掛裙上，為一對新人獻上美好祝福。裙褂是屬於中國人的傳統婚嫁服。一襲裙褂上身，已頓覺奢華。金絲銀線，繡製花開富貴，龍鳳呈祥，在燈光映照下炫彩奪目，熠熠生輝。你可曾好奇此身華服的由來？抑或是，在現今社會向來備受大多新人青睞的西方純白婚紗這一主流下，中式裙褂如何擺脫時代禁錮的枷鎖，在傳續中創新？

The dragon and phoenix embroidered with threads of gold and silver dance across the hanging skirt, offering blessings to the newlywed couple. The gown is a traditional Chinese wedding attire. Donning this luxurious ensemble immediately imbues a sense of opulence. The golden and silver threads, embroidered with auspicious blooms and the majestic dragon and phoenix, sparkle and shine under the glow of the lights. Have you ever wondered about the origins of this sartorial splendor? Or how this traditional Chinese gown, amid the mainstream popularity of the all-white Western wedding dress, has managed to break free from the shackles of time and innovate while preserving its legacy?

龍鳳裙褂的由來 

The Origins of the Dragon and Phoenix Gown

龍鳳褂起源於昔日滿洲人的服飾，源自明代立領馬面襖裙，褂指上衣，裙為下裳。相傳是數百年前有一個名叫梁儲的大臣，曾手抱年幼太子上殿登基，小皇帝長大後對梁儲十分尊敬，當梁儲女兒出嫁便賜她「龍鳳裙褂」。由於梁儲是廣東人，從此穿裙褂變成了廣東的婚俗，後再傳至上海，北方一帶。

“The dragon and phoenix gown” originated from the Manchu people's traditional dress, stemming from the stand-collar and horse-face robe and skirt of the Ming dynasty, with the "gua" referring to the upper garment and "qun" to the skirt. It is said that centuries ago, there was a high-ranking official named Liang Chu who carried the young crown prince to the court for his enthronement. The grown emperor held Liang Chu in high esteem, and when Liang's daughter was to be married, the emperor bestowed upon her the "dragon and phoenix gown." Since Liang Chu hailed from Guangdong, the gown became a wedding custom in the region, and later spread to Shanghai and northern areas.

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時至今日，龍鳳褂文化在廣東地區包括香港仍然盛行。作爲香港新娘出嫁的傳統禮服，裙褂興起於上世紀30年代，在六七十年代進入全盛時期。早期，龍鳳褂為黑褂紅裙，直到清末民初，人們漸漸以為紅色代表喜氣，褂裙顏色才由黑轉為紅，此外，早期的龍鳳褂多未設計腰身，樣式以直筒為主，現今為配合人們需求，多束收腰身，以襯托新娘曲線。龍鳳褂多為七分袖，因此，新娘多會在脖子和手腕戴上金色的龍鳳鐲和項鍊，再踩上鑲有「囍」字的跟鞋，優雅步入禮堂。中式禮服大多爲手工製作。以金銀線密度高低分爲褂皇、褂後、大中小五福等不同品類。接近100%金銀線刺繡的裙褂被稱爲“褂皇”，整件裙褂表面均由金銀線覆蓋。裙褂作為傳統婚嫁服，所覆蓋的金銀線刺繡亦承載著對婚姻愛情的美好祝願。

Even today, “the dragon and phoenix gown” culture remains vibrant in Guangdong, including Hong Kong. As the traditional wedding attire for Hong Kong brides, the gown gained prominence in the 1930s, reaching its heyday in the 1960s and 70s. In the early days, the gown consisted of a black upper garment and red skirt, until the late Qing and early Republican era, red was increasingly seen as an auspicious color, prompting the switch to an all-red ensemble. Additionally, the earlier gowns tended to have a straight, unwaisted silhouette, but now are often tailored to accentuate the bride's curves. The gown typically features three-quarter length sleeves, leading the bride to accessorize with golden dragon and phoenix bracelets and necklaces, as well as embroidered "Xi" (囍, meaning "joy") shoes, elegantly stepping into the wedding hall.

Most Chinese wedding attire is handcrafted. The density of the gold and silver thread embroidery categorizes the gown into different tiers, from the most premium "Gua Huang" (褂皇) with near-100% coverage, to the "Gua Hou" (褂後), "Da" (大), "Zhong" (中), and "Xiao" (小) varieties. The intricate threadwork on the gown symbolizes the couple's heartfelt wishes for a blessed marriage.

 

 

 

美好寓意背後的嚴謹 

The Meticulous Craftsmanship Behind the Auspicious Symbolism

美好寓意的背後是師傅的一雙巧手。龍鳳褂的製作是一項非常精細的工藝，從畫稿至完成需要完成三百多道工序，全部由手工製作。為求圖案對稱，繡法統一，刺繡必須由同一人完成。因此，完成縫製一套龍鳳褂需時三個月至一年不等。在講求效率、流水作業的時代，手工嫁衣背後蘊含的獨一無二的心意則更顯得彌足珍貴。

The beautiful symbolism is underpinned by the masterful hands of the artisans. The creation of a dragon and phoenix gown is an exceptionally refined craft, requiring over 300 manual steps from sketching the design to completion. To ensure symmetry and uniformity, the entire embroidery must be executed by a single embroiderer. As such, the making of a complete gown set can take anywhere from 3 months to a year. In an age that prioritizes efficiency and mass production, the unique human touch behind these handmade wedding gowns is invaluable.

可能你會疑惑，考慮到現今社會科技之發達，如此繁複的工序怎不交給機器代替？然而傳統裙褂龍鳳飛舞的感覺講求立體感的呈現，就只有人手可以做到這麼立體的效果。

You may wonder, given today's technological advancements, why the process is not simply mechanized? However, the three-dimensional, fluid movement of the dragon and phoenix motifs can only be achieved through skilled human hands.

不單是製作工序繁複，就連對刺繡師傅的要求亦極其嚴苛。首先， 刺繡師傅的手要求一定不可以汗多，否則汗水就會讓布匹和金銀線氧化而變色。

Beyond the complex manufacturing process, the requirements for the embroiderers are also exceptionally stringent. First and foremost, their hands must not perspire excessively, as sweat can cause the fabric and metallic threads to oxidize and discolor.

當傳統與現代融合

When Tradition Meets Modernity

受到西方社會文化審美影響，西方純白婚紗的引進曾使中式裙褂一度沒落。然而，中式裙褂的璀璨光芒又怎會被掩蓋？近年來，劉詩詩、陳妍希等不少女星婚嫁時所穿的中式裙褂傳統中帶著現代化的設計，使人讚嘆不已，這真的是我們認識中老套又款式沉悶的中式裙掛嗎？

The introduction of the Western white wedding dress once overshadowed the prominence of the Chinese gown. Yet, the radiant splendor of the traditional attire could not be dimmed. In recent years, many celebrity brides like Liu Shishi and Chen Yan-xi have worn modernized Chinese gowns, captivating audiences and challenging our preconceptions of this supposedly outdated and dull style.

傳統，傳續

Preserving Tradition Through Innovation

手工精緻，寓意深遠的中式裙褂，值得被留存下去。但要能延續傳統並不是墨守成規，一成不變。反而，在傳統的基礎上融合現代化的設計與剪裁，在傳續中創新，更能使更多人了解及樂意接觸到如此美妙的服飾文化。

The exquisitely crafted, symbolically rich Chinese gown deserves to be preserved. However, sustaining tradition does not mean rigid adherence to the status quo. By blending traditional elements with modern design and silhouettes, innovating while preserving, the allure of this sartorial heritage can be better appreciated and embraced by contemporary audiences.

正如Yi-Ming一直勵志為傳統旗袍長衫加入現代化元素，使其更為當代人們接受，成為新一代不可或缺的時尚單品。

Just as Yi-Ming has been committed to infusing traditional cheongsam and changshan with modern elements, making them essential fashion staples for the new generation, the Chinese wedding gown can also undergo a similar evolution, remaining relevant while honoring its timeless elegance.